How To Towel Wrap Your Cat
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On certain occasions such as nail trimming or administering medications, you may find it necessary to restrain your cat in order to protect yourself and your pet from harm. Experts say that wrapping your cat in a towel may be the simplest, safest and most effective way to do so. Cats are generally less social than dogs, and have a natural tendency to use their claws and dexterity to escape. A large bath towel is a safe and humane solution to restraining your cat when necessary.
Here are a few tips for properly restraining your cat in a towel, offered in an article entitled “Toweling Your Cat,” in the February 2011 edition of Catnip.
- Introduce your cat to the towel in a passive way, using positive reinforcement. For example, entice your cat to sit or lay down on the towel by offering a can of cat food or a toy to play with while on the towel.
- Gently wrap the towel over the cat’s back while he is distracted by eating or playing.
- Allow your cat to feel free to leave the towel whenever he likes.
- Your cat is able to sense your frustration and nervousness. So, remain calm throughout the process.
- When you are ready to wrap your cat, gently place your cat on the towel, near the center, with his head just a few inches from the edge of the towel.
- Wrap one end of the towel around the cat’s neck like a scarf, allowing his head to be free while his paws are wrapped snuggly inside the towel.
- Continue to wrap the towel around the cat’s back, so only your cat’s head is exposed.
- After one half of the towel is wrapped all the way around the cat’s body, continue the process by wrapping the other half of the towel around in the other direction.
- Make sure the wrap is snug, so as to protect yourself and your cat from any attempt to escape.
A large bathroom towel is a common household item that will allow you to restrain your cat safely and humanely whenever necessary. When used properly, it will enable you to trim your cats nails or administer medication much more easily.
Information provided by “Toweling Your Cat,” Catnip, February 2011.
Salmonella in Diamond Pet Foods
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Fourteen people have been sickened with Salmonella Infantis infections back east. Make sure someone you know is aware of this situation. Here is the link to the article so you can read it.
http://www.foodsafetynews.com/2012/05/salmonella-tainted-dog-food-sickens-14-people/
BY MARY ROTHSCHILD | MAY 04, 2012
Preparing for a New Puppy
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There are few things in the world as enjoyable and rewarding as bringing a new puppy into your family. As your family prepares for your puppy’s arrival,the ASPCA offers some wonderful tips to make puppy feel at home right away.
- Have a family meeting. Once you’ve determined that the entire family is on board with welcoming a new puppy into the home, you should all sit down and talk about how each family member will help to care for the puppy. Some topics for discussion should be: who will feed the puppy and when, who will take the puppy out to potty and when, and who will take the little guy to the vet for vaccinations and deworming. Another topic for discussion should be an agreement on the language that the family will use to teach the puppy. Everyone should agree to use the same words for commands, so the puppy will catch on to his/her routine as quickly as possible. Also, talk to your children, who will be eager for their puppy’s arrival, and explain to them the best way to interact with their puppy without overwhelming him/her in the beginning.
- Go shopping. Your furry baby will need a few items from the pet store to make your home comfortable and inviting. Be sure to include on the shopping list: puppy food, food/water bowls, bedding, collar, leash, tags, crate, chew toys, and grooming supplies.
- Puppy-proof the home. Your home must be a safe place for a playful and inquisitive puppy. So, be sure to tape loose electrical cords to baseboards, put poisonous chemicals in out-of-reach areas, de-clutter items that could be attractive for a puppy to chew on or that could break, place plants out-of-reach, and put up gates or a crate for your puppy. Getting down on the floor and looking from puppy’s point of view will help you see potential hazards in a whole new way.
- Bringing puppy home. It’s best to take puppy out to potty when you first arrive at the home, to avoid any accidents from all of the excitement. In the first few days, it is important to keep the same eating, sleeping, and potty routine that your puppy had before you took him/her home, to avoid any distress. If you wish to switch to a different food brand, do so incrementally after about a week.
- Keep it consistent. Maintaining a routine of eating, sleeping, going potty, and play time will help your puppy to adapt to the new environment more readily. Help your puppy to become comfortable from the very beginning with not only lots of time with family, but also with time alone. It’s natural for your puppy to vocalize his/her anxiety with being alone, but it is important to get him/her familiar with the idea. Otherwise, your family and your puppy will have to address issues of separation anxiety down the road.
The arrival of a new puppy can bring such delight to your family and preparing for the event will help puppy to feel “at home” right away.
Information provided by: “Puppy Preparedness,” By Jacque Lynn Schultz, CPDT, Companion Animal Programs Advisor, ASPCA National Shelter Outreach,http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/dog-care/dog-care-puppy-preparedness.aspx
Heartworm: A Deadly Disease That is Easily Preventable
By · CommentsHeartworm is a deadly parasite that lives in the heart and arteries of infected dogs, as well as some cats and wild animals. It is a serious disease that can be fatal without treatment. The good news is that prevention for your pet is simple and affordable.
The Cause
Heartworms transfer to each animal by way of mosquitoes. When a mosquito carries infected blood from one animal to the next, heartworm larvae enter the muscle tissue and travel to the blood vessels. According to the ASPCA, “several hundred worms can live in one dog for five to seven years.” They can grow to reach twelve inches in length. They wreak havoc as they travel through arteries and vital organs, reaching their final destination of the lungs and heart.
Since mosquitoes play a key role in the contraction of this disease, animals that live in warm, humid climates (where mosquitoes are prevalent) are more susceptible. However, heartworm disease is widespread throughout the United States and any dog is vulnerable without the aid of preventative prescriptions.
Symptoms
Animals may not display symptoms of infection immediately; rather symptoms could take months or years to surface. Typical symptoms of this disease are coughing, vomiting, difficulty breathing, loss of weight, and fatigue. If your pet displays any of these signs of heartworm disease, you should contact your veterinarian.
Diagnosis
A veterinarian can diagnose heartworm disease through a series of tests such as: examination, ultrasounds, and blood tests. It is important to have your vet test your dog for heartworm annually or before beginning a new heartworm preventative prescription.
Prevention
Once your pet has been tested for heartworm, your vet may prescribe a preventative chewable pill which can be administered monthly. There are also topical products available which may be applied to the skin to prevent infection. It is recommended that you continue to administer preventative medication to your dog throughout the year to insure his safety, considering the medication also prevents infection from other parasites.
Treatment
If your pet is diagnosed with heartworms, there are highly successful treatments. However, the treatment process is much more difficult than prevention. Treatment usually involves hospitalization, as well as a series of injections into the infected dog’s muscles. Follow up care includes restrictive exercise for several weeks, as well as preventative medication to decrease the risk of future infection.
Advancements in Heartworm prevention and treatment have come a long way in recent years. A fairly simple routine of testing your pet yearly and administering preventative medication monthly may save your pet from contracting this deadly disease.
Information provided by: www.aspca.org
Ear Infections: A Common Ailment for Many Dogs
By · CommentsEar Infections: A Common Ailment for Many Dogs
Ear infections are very common among dogs. In fact, most dogs will suffer from an ear infection at least once in their life. So, how can a concerned dog owner recognize the signs of an ear infection, prevent them from occurring, and treat their pet’s ear infection when it does occur? Cesar Milan recently posted a great article written by Henry Cerny, DVM MS on his website addressing this very topic.
What causes ear infections in dogs?
Most ear infections found in adult canines are caused by bacteria and/or yeast. More commonly in puppies, ear mites are found to be the source of ear infections. Having your veterinarian take a sample and look under the microscope will help them to identify the root of the problem.
What are the signs of an ear infection?
Becoming aware of the signs that your pet may have an ear infection will help you to address the infection before it gets out of hand. Typical signs of ear infection are: scratching, rubbing, shaking of the ears, unusual odor coming from the ears, and/or pain and sensitivity in the ear area.
How can I prevent my dog from contracting an ear infection?
Ear infections commonly occur as a result of too much moisture in the ear canal. This may be from bathing, swimming, or grooming. The excess moisture creates an environment ideal for bacterial and yeast growth. One way to prevent ear infections would be to routinely clean and dry your pet’s ears after bathing, swimming, or grooming.
Ear infections may also occur as a side effect of your pet’s allergies. These allergies may come from pollens, dust, mold, or food. When a dog suffers from an allergic reaction, the skin inside the ear becomes inflamed and promotes the growth of bacteria and/or yeast already living inside the ear. To prevent ear infections from occurring as a result of allergies, you must first identify the source of the allergy and then try to reduce your pet’s exposure to the particular allergen. Also, routinely cleaning and drying the ear with ear cleaner made specifically for dogs will help to prevent bacterial and yeast growth.
How do I treat my dog’s ear infections?
If you suspect that your dog has an ear infection, the best thing to do is take him to see your veterinarian. Special medication is usually prescribed for treating the ear infection. First, you will need to gently clean the infected area with a mild dog ear cleaning solution. Fill a small amount into the ear and carefully cover it with a cotton ball. Then, rub the cotton ball softly in a circular motion. Repeat the process for as long as your dog will allow until the cotton ball comes out fairly clean after rubbing inside the ear. Once cleaned, the ear is ready for the medication that your vet has prescribed. Dr. Cerny warns to never use Q-tips, as they may push the debris further into the ear canal, and never use harsh cleansers such as rubbing alcohol. In most cases, topical ointment is all that is needed to effectively treat a dog’s ear infection. However, in severe cases, oral antibiotics may be prescribed as well.
Considering the likelihood that your dog will eventually encounter an ear infection at some time in their life, and also considering how much pain and discomfort they may go through, it is wise to be aware of the signs of ear infections, ways to prevent them, as well as ways to treat them. Your perky-eared pet will be very thankful!
Information provided by: http://www.cesarsway.com/dogcare/health/Ear-Infections-in-Dogs-Symptoms-Causes-and-Treatments
Bordetella: Does Your Dog Really Need the Kennel Cough Vaccine?
by JAN RASMUSEN on MARCH 22, 2012 · By dogs Naturally Magazine.
Permission from Jan Rasmusen at www.Truth4Dogs.com
Your veterinarian, kennel owner, day care provider or groomer says your dog should/must be vaccinated against kennel cough, but you’re trying not to over-vaccinate.
What should you do?
More and more, pet parents are finding another vet, kennel owner, day care provider or groomer — or keeping their dog at home! Vaccination is a serious medical procedure with significant potential risks. If that isn’t enough, the vaccine isunlikely to prevent kennel cough. It can even produce kennel-cough like symptoms. The WSAVA Guidelines say, “Transient (3–10 days) coughing, sneezing, or nasal discharge may occur in a small percentage of vaccinates.” It can also cause a serious anaphylactoid reaction. Look it up. You won’t like it.
About kennels, day care providers and groomers: In general, if they have good ventilation and practice good hygiene, kennel cough shouldn’t be an issue. Bordetella is not for dogs playing together in well-ventilated areas — like dog parks or backyards or living rooms.
Think of kennel cough as a canine cold, transmitted as human colds are transmitted — from an infected individual in close contact with another individual with compromised immunity. Like a cold, it is also considered a mild self-limiting disease. A veterinarian friend uses an OTC remedy called B & T Cough and Bronchial Syrup to treat the cough. For small dogs she uses the children’s variety. See your vet for further treatment information.
If your service provider is afraid your dog will contract kennel cough at their establishment, offer to sign a letter of informed consent saying you’ve been informed of the risk and will waive liability. That should do it. Should. It’s really just liability at issue, not your dog’s overall health.
If the person insisting on the Bordetella vaccine is afraid other dogs at their establishment will contract kennel cough from your unvaccinated dog, this person clearly doesn’t trust that thevaccinated dogs actually have immunity. If they don’t believe the vaccine is protective, why insist that you or anyone else vaccinate?
Note: If you decide to give the vaccine, make sure it is the intranasal form, that is, given as nose drops, not injected. And give the vaccine at least a week before contact with other dogs, for the sake of both your dog and other dogs.
Don’t take my word for any of this. Read what two vets and a PhD have to say about the Bordetella vaccine:
World-renowned vaccination scientist, Dr. Ronald Schultz, says [emphasis is mine]: “Many animals receive “kennel cough” vaccines that include Bordetella and CPI and/or CAV-2 every 6 to 9 monthswithout evidence that this frequency of vaccination is necessary or beneficial. In contrast, other dogs are never vaccinated for kennel cough and disease is not seen. CPI immunity lasts at least 3 years when given intranasally, and CAV -2 immunity lasts a minimum of 7 years parenterally for CAV-I. These two viruses in combination with Bordetella bronchiseptica are the agents most often associated with kennel cough, however, other factors play an important role in disease (e.g. stress, dust, humidity, molds, mycoplasma, etc.), thus kennel cough is not a vaccine preventable diseasebecause of the complex factors associated with this disease. Furthermore, this is often a mild to moderate self limiting disease. I refer to it as the ‘Canine Cold.’”
Cat Feeding Recommendations
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Cat Feeding Recommendations
The general public, scientists and veterinarians have recommended for years to feed cats like dogs; free choice dry food or meals of dry with some wet. Finally after years of this misaligned thinking, food standards for cats have changed. To understand why our standards have changed, we must understand cats.
Cats are “obligate” carnivores which means they depend on nutrients solely from animal flesh for their survival. They are hunters of meat and would eat small rodents and birds multiple times daily if they were not domesticated. A cat’s stomach is designed for these small frequent meals. Cats get their water from the animals they eat and do not drink much in the wild. They also lack specific digestive enzymes which make them less able to digest and absorb energy from carbohydrates compared to proteins. Due to these facts, we recommend a canned grain free diet with protein as the number one ingredient and that they should eat many small meals throughout the day. Cats can eat dry food, but should get most of their water from wet food rather than drinking.
Our recommendations for feeding cats are as follows:
Feed small frequent meals throughout the day.
Ideally 3+ meals of a GRAIN-FREE canned food.
If it is not possible to do only canned food multiple times throughout the day,
then we recommend keeping a dry grain free food out for your cat at all times.
This allows them to have so they snacks or small meals along with their 2 canned meals a day.
In order for cats to get enough essential fatty acids in their diet
we recommend feeding them 1 can of wild caught canned salmon per week
OR supplementing their diet with pure DHA
(omega 3 fatty acids—we carry a couple of quality products here).
posted: December 02, 2011 by: McClintock Animal Care Center
TLC House & Pet Sitting Service, LLC
Earns Coveted Angie’s List Super Service Award
Award reflects businesses’ consistently high level of customer service
TLC House & Pet Sitting Service, LLC has been awarded the prestigious 2011 Angie’s List Super Service Award, an honor bestowed annually on approximately 5 percent of all the businesses rated on the nation’s leading provider of consumer reviews on local service companies.
“TLC House & Pet Sitting Service is proud to provide professional pet sitting services to our clients, and we are thrilled to have the opportunity to recognize the passion and dedication exhibited by each of our sitters,” stated Kara Jenkins, owner of TLC House & Pet Sitting Service,.
Kara Jenkins of TLC House & Pet Sitting Service, LLC provides professional pet sitting services tailored to clients and their pets in their natural home environment. With over 20 years of experience, their mission is to provide qualified, experienced, trusted and personalized care to their clients by offering them peace-of-mind while they are away. Licensed, bonded, and insured, TLC has been caring for all types of pets in Arizona since 2001 as the best “Alternative to Boarding.” 480-588-1364 (1DOG) ext 0, info@tlcpetsitter.com P. O. Box 7864 Chandler, AZ, 85246 www.tlcpetsitter.com
“Only a fraction of the businesses rated on Angie’s List can claim the sterling customer service record of being a Super Service Award winner because we set a high bar,” said Angie’s List FounderAngie Hicks. “The fact that TLC House & Pet Sitting Service, LLC can claim Super Service Award status speaks volumes about its dedication to consumers
Angie’s List Super Service Award winners have met strict eligibility requirements including earning a minimum number of reports, an exemplary rating from their customers and abiding by Angie’s List operational guidelines.
Service business ratings are updated daily on Angie’s List, but members can find the 2011 Super Service Award logo next to business names in search results on AngiesList.com.
Angie’s List collects consumer reviews on local contractors and doctors in more than 500 service categories. Currently, more than 1 million consumers across the U.S. rely on Angie’s List to help them make the best hiring decisions. Members get unlimited access to local ratings via Internet or phone, exclusive discounts, the Angie’s List magazine and help from the Angie’s List complaint resolution service. Take a quick tour of Angie’s List and view the latest Angie’s List news.
According to a report featured on Fox News on February 20, 2012, the Arizona Humane Society is facing an overabundance of Chihuahua’s. Representatives at the Arizona Humane Society estimate that Chihuahuas and Pit Bulls make up more than 30% of all dogs currently up for adoption. Many are strays. However, The Humane Society has noticed an uptick in pet owners and caregivers dropping off Chihuahuas. To watch the recent Fox News Report regarding an overpopulation of Chihuahuas in Arizona pounds, click the following link: http://video.foxnews.com/v/1463283048001/chihuahua-overload-in-arizona-pounds
The Arizona Humane Society is in need of adoptive families who would like to provide a loving, caring home for a Chihuahua in need.They will help those who are interested in the adoption process in order to find the right pet.
According to the Arizona Humane Society, Chihuahuas are small dogs that require minimal exercise as well as minimal coat care. They are a tolerant breed and are described as “accepting of attention; slow to accept family friends, but will form a weak bond after many pleasant experiences; uncomfortable in crowds greater than five and will ignore or sniff and walk away.” (Dog Breed Characteristics 2006,www.azhumane.org ). Chihuahuas are happiest when they are the only dogs in the household, because they love their owner’s undivided attention. However, they do adjust moderately well with cats and other small pets.
If you or someone you know is interested in adopting a Chihuahua, please contact the Arizona Humane Society.
Information provided by www.azhumane.org andhttp://video.foxnews.com/v/1463283048001/chihuahua-overload-in-arizona-pounds
Cats are instinctively clean animals that are internally motivated to use a clean, private litter box. They require very little if any potty training. So why is it that your cat chooses to relieve himself outside of the litter box? There are several reasons for you to consider.
- If your cat is uncharacteristically eliminating waste outside of the litter box, it is important to understand that this behavior is common when there is a medical problem present. Urinary tract infections and crystals make urination painful for a cat. They may relate the painful experience to the litter box, and begin to avoid it. Before considering other possibilities for this behavior, first speak to your veterinarian about your cat’s health.
- Cats are very particular about the cleanliness of the area in which they choose to go potty. It must be clean (by their standards). If the litter box is soiled, your cat may prefer to “go” elsewhere. Be sure to clean your kitty’s litter box at least once a day. If there are multiple cats, you may need to consider more frequent cleaning.
- A common cause for elimination outside of the litter box is stress. If you notice your cat is going potty in random places, take note of the environment. Are stressful events triggering this behavior? Some stressful events that could cause your kitty to “go” are: a new pet in the home, loud or boisterous kids in the home, or unusually loud noises around the home. Whenever possible, pinpoint the origin of your kitty’s stress and find a solution for it.
- Cats prefer a quiet, safe, and private location for their litter box. They also prefer to eliminate waste far away from where they eat. If the litter box is in a location that is noisy, high-traffic, or there is a chance that other household animals may disturb their peace, they may choose another safer location to do their “business”. Be sure to choose a quiet, safe location for your kitty’s litter box, so he will feel comfortable while using it. Also, place your cat’s food in a separate room from his litter box.
- Studies show that cats prefer litter that has a “sand-like” consistency and is odor free. Litter that is highly perfumed may be offensive to your cat and therefore, your cat may reject his litter box. So, consider using litter that contains fewer harsh odors. (Remember that clumping litters are NOT recommended for kittens ages 4 months and younger, as they may have a tendency to swallow litter). Also, when cleaning your cats litter box, use the same consideration with regards to cleaning products. Furthermore, allowing the litter box to dry in the sun will help to kill germs and provide a fresh, clean scent.
- Also, litter box liners tend to be an annoyance to kitties and they may avoid the litter box because of it. Although you may enjoy the convenience of the clean-up, your kitty may not appreciate it. Consider ditching the liners to prevent your cat from avoiding the litter box.
- It is common for cats to prefer two different locations for #1’s and #2’s. If you feel that this may be the case for your kitty, you should have 2 litter boxes. Keep them in separate locations. If you have a two-story home, keep one litter box on each floor.
- Inviting a new cat into the home, or moving can cause behaviors such as marking the territory and stress-related elimination. If you have a new cat or a new home, you should confine your cat in one room including the litter box, bed, food and water. This will allow the cat to feel safe and secure while getting used to his new surroundings. Once the cat has used the litter box multiple times, and is showing signs that he is curious about exploring the rest of the house, you can then let him do so.
- Once you determine the location of your cat’s litter box, don’t move it or change it (except to clean it of course)! Cats need the consistency and they resist change.
10. If you find your cat in the middle of “going” somewhere in the house, don’t punish him. Instead, do something to interrupt him like making a startling noise. Then immediately direct your cat to the litter box. Since cats often times relieve themselves outside of the litter box only in times of stress, by punishing them, you will only add to their stress and cause more accidents in the future. Instead of punishment, try to discover the reason why your cat is eliminating outside of the litter box. Only then, will you be able to alter the behavior.
For more information on this topic and many others please visit: http://www.cozycatfurniture.com/cat_newsletters/cat_newsletter_2_issue.html .
